Posts Tagged "Costa Rica"
Passion or Addiction?
I’m addicted. I ate 5 already today. Is it the sweet, tangy crunch? Is it the need for vitamin A, C, magnesium, iron, flavonoid antioxidants such as beta carotene? Or is it that it is a good source of dietary fiber including insoluble fiber. Read: good for detox and colon? 500 types of cultivated passions–I’m loving these granadilla, orange-sized yellow passion fruits. Such satisfaction to split their shiny shell apart with my fingers and to slurp up the fruit. Cool spiny pulp that holds the seeds in. Certainly one of my latest passions!
Grenadilla, Passion Fruit
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Cerro Chato Volcano Hike
Over the few rainy days, I got to know the people in the tiny town, and relished the fog lifting to show off the view of Lake Arenal and the Arenal volcano, which last erupted in 2010 and is illegal to climb.
Arenal Volcano
Instead, I chose to hike Cerro Chato volcano (3740 ft, which last erupted 38,000 years ago). It’s said to be about a 4 hour round trip walk. Though less hiking time, that was about right with all my picture taking! The hike starts out on the lovely grounds of the Arenal Observatory Lodge. White-nosed coati, or pizote as they are called in Spanish, roam freely. More on them as they are frequently seen.
Pizote in Spanish or White-nosed coati in English
I was lucky enough to spot the less frequently seen anteater. He greeted me with open arms;-)
Anteater or Oso Hormiguero
The Cerro Chato trail is more like a narrow path sometimes a foot deep and wide enough only for one foot. I was glad the rains of the past couple days had ceased, or this would be slippery!
Deeply rutted Cerro Chato Volcano Trail
Caterpillar not to be messed with
It was definitely steep and a good workout in the humidity. When I got to the top, the view of the crater lake was socked in, so I hiked down the muddy trail to take a swim in it! When I came back up, the fog had lifted enough to reveal the beauty of the laguna.
Happy post swim in the Cerro Chato crater lake. Thanks to David, Maria for the photo
Espejito or Glasswinged Butterfly
Cerro Chato Hike
I descended with David and Maria who were on their honeymoon. We shared the steep descent, waterfall side tour, howler monkey show and baby coatis on the run. They so kindly offered to give me a ride back to where I was staying since the bus wouldn’t be coming for a while and it would be making a long detour first.
Happy Honeymoon Hikers David and Maria giving perspective to the rutted trail
Again, today I was grateful for the kindness of fellow travelers. A family of four gave me a ride from the hotel to the trailhead in the morning, which allowed me to leave an hour earlier. I was amazed and happy to see them at the top of the volcano with their young kids about ages 4 and 6. And David and Maria told me they got a good view of the Arenal volcano after they dropped me off, so it was a great day for all!
Read MoreBirds with Ruby Red Slippers
I awoke to the sound of howler monkeys in the distance and a variety of birds. These birds with the ruby red slippers seemed to go from place to place with a flick of their red tail. May we all follow our heart’s desire as easily!
Rufous Tailed Hummingbird
The property has many plants and trees typical to the region and used for medicinal purposes and beyond. This is achote in Spanish, or achiote. The natural pigment annatto is made from the fruit. It is used to color foods such as cheese, and rice (instead of saffron). It is also used by Native Americans for body paint, and in natural remedies to treat infections.
Achote, Achiote, Annatto Pigment
This plant is used as soap, particularly for washing clothes. Sorry I don’t know the details, only that it is phosphorus free.
Plant used for Soap
Most of you know this one, or at least are grateful for it every morning. More on coffee in a later post. The hotel grows their own coffee beans, and processes it to serve it every day. I drank their cinnamon bark tea instead, which I learned is good for gastrointestinal upset, for infections caused by bacteria and parasitic worms, and for menstrual cramps.
Coffee Plant
Land of the Mist ruled by the Queen of the Night
I was definitely feeling ready to move on from Alajuela, but found it difficult to choose where to go. After talking to everyone and then just choosing, I finally decided to head a few hours north east to the La Fortuna, Arenal area. The bus ride was pretty over the curvy green hills dotted with Christmas trees and cows. Local passengers didn’t talk amongst themselves, but talked on their phones. I had an entire afternoon in La Fortuna before the regular 5:30 pm transport left for the village of El Castillo where I would stay. As I roamed the town, I was surprised at how touristy it was. It seemed to be a town built for the tourists. Perhaps there are many such places built around the expats and tourists in Costa Rica, or perhaps I would need to stay longer to discover the tico (Costa Rican) locales in La Fortuna. I would not find out. When the van taxi for El Castillo came, I took the seat next to the driver to have the most settled stomach on the curvy roads and to practice my Spanish. Luis was happy to help me with my Spanish and work on his English. He pointed out the free natural river hot springs where I would return to enjoy days later.
Free Tabacon Hot Springs. See the steam rising off the river?
I was the last stop high on the hill beyond the village. I arrived in the dark and settled into my deluxe canvas/plastic tent with a cement floor, one wall with a window and a roof as well as double bed with single bunk above it. A closet-sized metal storage locker in one corner and a wooden bench under the window. I awoke to the deep sound of howler monkeys, understandably called congos in Spanish.
The next couple days it was rainy and foggy, but beautiful exploring the trails (with borrowed rubber boots as caution to the snakes as well as mud and stream crossing).
Higuera or fig tree with yellow echinacea flowers
Heliconia Butterfly
Palm
Blue Grey Tanager
La Reina de la Noche or Queen of the Night. Also called Angel’s Trumpet
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Finding Beauty Yet To Be Seen
The only thing I booked for my winter in Costa Rica was my first two nights just 10 minutes from the airport in Alajuela. I went on a recommendation to stay at this little hotel with a handful of rooms, communal kitchen, back garden, wonderful English speaking manager, kind cook and night receptionist. I ended up staying a bit longer to settle into hearing Spanish, buy a local phone and decide where to go next (which has perhaps been my greatest challenge so far;-). While in Alajuela, I was reminded of Thailand with the bustle of the traffic in town and simultaneous easy going spirit. I explored the local market and headed out on a day trip to Ojo de Agua which was recommended as ‘muy lindo’, very beautiful. Eye of Water or the source of water was a spring bubbling up into natural pools for swimming with hiking trails around it. I was up for a dose of nature, so I walked to to the bus station searching for the San Antonio de Belen-Ojo de Agua bus. No easy feat with a big bus station lacking signs. After wandering around looking for a bit I stopped to ask a gentleman dressed in dress slacks and button down shirt where that bus was. He turned around with me, walking the opposite direction, asked a man seated at a bus stop if this was the right spot for that bus and confirmed it was. I waited and observed.
Snacks While Waiting for the Bus
A closer look– look at the cuteness of those shoes and that little hand on the right. I took another close up of the hand, but I’ll restrain myself with the postings;-)
Waiting for the bus
The bus came. It said Ojo de Agua and I confirmed with the driver. I talked with a woman who sat next to me speaking impeccable English to her phone. She mentioned Ojo de Agua would be the last stop. Indeed it made sense since that was written on the bus. It was wonderful to leave town and get closer to the green hills I’d been longly eyeing. At one stop the bus driver stretched, leaning back looking at me expectantly. “Ojo de Agua?” I asked. Somehow I understood from his Spanish explanation that we had already passed it. I was relieved he was headed back that direction. He told me where to get off though when I crossed the street and laid eyes on Ojo de Agua, I was sure there had been a misunderstanding somewhere. I saw a couple big swimming pools. I tried communicating with the ticket takers. I explained I wanted to walk. The woman called a security guard who took me around on the cement path. I tried to explain I wanted to see the source of the water, so he brought me to the cement basin where the water bubbled up and then down into the swimming pools. Sure the water was natural in the pools–no chlorine, but the true natural pool I saw was not for swimming. It didn’t look so clean and was just for the ducks. I decided to make the most of it and discovered horses on the steep hillside and a few birds. So behind the initial lack of beauty, here is what I experienced:
Banana Trees with their purple ‘flowers’ which I haven’t seen anyone eat here like they did in Thailand.
Green Heron
Two Great-Tailed Grackles grackling away loudly!
Great Kiskadee Flycatcher from the front
Great Kiskadee Flycatcher from the back
Muscovy Duck (?) paying homage to a tree
Cat on a Tin Roof (at least I hope that isn’t the Great-Tailed Bird Hunter)
May you find beauty wherever you are even it there doesn’t appear to be much at first glance!
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